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MARKING OUT A FINGER JOINT - (PART TWO)

V. Ryan 2003 - 2008

 

7. The first side is placed above the second side of the joint and the joint is marked out. Again a pencil is used although the traditional tool would be a marking knife.

 

8. Marking out the joint when both pieces are together can be difficult but a steel ruler or a try square can be used to straighten any lines. Again, the waste wood must be clearly identified.

 

 

9. The tenon saw is used to cut down the lines marking the middle section of the joint. The wood must be secured in the vice in the same way as before. Remember, the saw is used to cut straight down the joint, on the waste side of the pencil line.

   

14. A coping saw is used to remove the waste wood. Again the wood is secured in the vice.

   

 

   

15. If the joint is slightly inaccurate a firmer or bevel edged chisel can be used to correct it. A G cramp is used to hold the wood firmly. Scrap wood is placed underneath to protect the surface of the bench from the chisel. The second side of the joint should now be complete.

   

The joint should fit together accurately. If the stages outlined above have been carried out carefully.

   
PDF FILE - CLICK HERE FOR PRINTABLE VERSION OF EXERCISE SHOWN BELOW
   
   

 

   

QUESTIONS:
1. With the aid of diagrams and notes, describe the stages involved in the marking out and cutting of a finger joint.
2. What safety factors must be kept in mind when using the tools required for cutting the joint?

   

CLICK HERE FOR FIRST STAGE OF MARKING OUT AND CUTTING

   

CLICK HERE FOR RESISTANT MATERIALS INDEX PAGE

   
 
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